Today I covered 9.8 miles, 15.8 km, and began the long route to town over Bishop Pass. The elevation loss from yesterday needs to be regained, and the trail out of the valley was relentlessly steep. I camped just short of the pass, next to some beautiful lakes off trail in the Dusy Basin.

I made breakfast at camp, and watched a deer eat his at the next campsite over. He must have heard me moving around 10 m away, but he wasn’t bothered. I got on trail and walked a very nice downhill mile through the forest to the junction where Palisade Creek flows into the Middle Fork Kings River.

After the junction I begin today’s long climb. From a low point of 8035 ft, 2449 m, I walked up the Middle Fork Kings River for about an hour and a half. The trail passes marshy meadows flanked by huge mountains, and makes several stream crossings. At times the trail climbs steeply past waterfalls and rapids.

I reach a second junction at 11 am. The trail here heads up towards Bishop Pass, and over to a trailhead some 12 miles away. As soon as I leave the PCT, the climb becomes very steep. The trail climbs through countless switchbacks alongside a river which crashes down the steep granite mountainside. In 1 mile, 1.6 km, the trail climbs 660 ft, 201 m. The climb up is a similar grade to yesterday’s descent.

The reward for this hard work is to see the whole valley quickly drop away below. Before I know it, I’m way above the valley floor, and starting to see level with the mountains on the other side. After the first mile, there’s brief respite as the trail continues to climb, but not as steeply. Just half an hour later, the steep ascent returns, this time we climb 804 ft, 238 m in a mile.

By the time I get to Dusy Basin, near the top of Bishop Pass, my legs are shattered for the second day in a row. There are lakes and streams all around here, a perfect place to stop for a snack.

I decide to keep going just a little bit further to get to the second plateau in the upper Dusy Basin. Around here looks to be the last good camp before the top of the pass, and I find a great spot near a lake, about 100 m off the trail.

As I finish dinner, I watch the last light fade from the highest peaks above the basin. It’s such a clear and still night that I decide to try what Durston calls “star gazer mode” with his tent. It’s a bit like cowboy camping, except the mosquitos can’t get me, it seems like they don’t sleep at night up here. As I write this, I can look out through my tent and see the stars shine brightly above.