I took an alternate route today to put a bit more distance between myself and the Emigrant Fire. For the first section this morning, I was on the PCT with Catch-up, Brewmaster and Canyon Man. We hiked around Tolo Mountain and past Windigo Butte to Windigo Pass. From this point, I left the PCT, while the others continued on the trail. I took the Oregon Skyline trail instead, which actually was the original route for the PCT once upon a time. In the afternoon I walked past Oldenburg Lake to Crescent Lake for camp. Today’s mileage was approximately 17 miles, 27.4 km.

This morning the smoke had lessened a bit from last night. We could see some of the hills around the area and the smell was much less noticeable. We packed up camp and began traversing the side of Tolo Mountain before descending the long ridge down to Windigo Pass.

I rejoined with the others at Windigo Pass and also met a hiker named Scrounger who first hiked the PCT 50 years ago. I learned that the alternate route was the original, before the PCT was consolidated into a single trail. This section was once called the Oregon Skyline, and formed part of the Pacific Crest Trail System until the early 90’s when the PCT was unified and routed slightly further west onto a new trail.

The fire had not been causing any issues for the PCT, and so the others decided to walk the official route. I’d already warmed to the idea of taking the Skyline Trail, so we split up and hoped to regroup at Shelter Cove tomorrow. My first water stop was Oldburg Lake which was crystal clear and totally free of smoke.

Later in the afternoon, the wind changed and smoke began drifting through the forest. It wasn’t too bad, but I wet my bandana and covered my face anyway; breathing this smoke for a long time really saps your energy.

I arrived at Whitefish Horse Camp about an hour before dark, and the whole place was empty except for the camp host. She welcomed me to camp and even gave me a can of root beer and a chocolate pudding. Later in the evening, one of the hikers I’d met in NorCal, Kamilo, caught up with me. He’s been crushing 30+ mile days out here, and I’m certainly glad to have taken a ride to Crater Lake instead of pushing like that.