I spent the day retracing my steps – in the past, this would be called a victory lap which only some people would do while others continue into Canada. Now, nobody is allowed to cross the border on the PCT, so everyone is doing the victory lap, which I think is actually really cool.

I climbed back up the ridge over the lake, and began making my way south. The trail took me back around all the same ridges as the other day, but it felt so different. For the first time in six months, I was seeing the same view twice.

A couple of hours later, I got to an area where bears were rumoured to hang around. I kept my eyes peeled as I walked, and was so lucky to see a bear down in the valley. The bear must have heard or smelt me approaching, because it was already running full tilt away from the trail when I spotted it. I could hear it panting from 200m away, and saw its long shiny fur rippling as it ran. I barely managed to get a couple of blurry pictures of it before it was gone.

I walked for hours, reflecting on the journey I’d just experienced. In four hours, I didn’t see anyone coming the other way, and I began to wonder if there was some kind of awful weather forecast to shut down the trail, was this it?

Later in the day I saw one person heading north, and shortly after that I saw many more. I crossed paths with Prodigal Son once again, and the Florida boys; twins who I’d met at White Pass a few weeks ago. I was astonished to see Cook followed by Mango heading the other way. Last I’d heard, they were setting out from Leavenworth and I wasn’t sure if they would make it before the weather closed. Knowing they were about to finish was a huge thrill.

I climbed up to a ridge above Shaw Creek to set up my last PCT camp. There was one other tent there already, and it turned out to be Avocado. I was over the moon to be sharing my last campsite with a familiar face. I’d spent so much time talking with all the other hikers on trail that it was getting dark by the time I’d arrived, but I got set up and cooked my last dinner by headlamp anyway. We both reflected on our journeys, Avocado’s about to end, and mine having just done so. We stayed up until quite late (by hiker standards), but eventually the time came for me to get some sleep, for the very last time on the PCT.