Trekkin Weka

The blog of a Kiwi on the Pacific Crest Trail 2025

The Desert

As a NOBO hiker, this is where it all began for me. 23rd April marked my start date and I spent 54 days hiking through this section. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South on 15th of June and having made it this far I was swept away by the welcome from the balcony of the Kennedy Meadows General Store.

The unforgettable wildlife and landscape of the desert will be with me forever

The desert was full of excitement and nerves, myself and everyone around me were pumped with enthusiasm, ready to tackle the trail. For many on trail, hiking the PCT had been a lifelong dream, for me it was a new discovery, and the collective atmosphere was contagious. Near the start of the trail, everyone I’d met was eager to chat and get to know people around them. I remember my first night on trail, there were almost a dozen hikers spread around the small campsite at around 11 miles, we sat in a group and cooked together, recounting our first day on trail and sharing our plans for the weeks and months ahead.

I started the trail with a group of hikers I’d met on the bus, plus some others I’d met in the first few days. One hiker, MJ from Utah, was thrilled with us down-under folk using the word faff to describe how we mucked around at camp each morning and evening. A pair of Aussies, Lucy and Tiger, proposed we call ourselves the Faffy Family and I suggested a Kiwi touch, how about the Faffy Whanau? The name stuck and we all remained in contact under this name, even after we began to find our own pace and spread out through the trail.

About a month into the desert, a chance encounter with 3 other hikers led to an unexpected grouping, but I didn’t know it until about 2 weeks later. I met Ninja, Fortune Cookie and Star at the windfarm near Cabazon. We shared a campsite one night and regrouped unexpectedly at Wrightwood. We called ourselves the LA Aquadoofers, since we’d made a true party out of crossing the LA Aqueduct at night, Doof is a word I’d been using to describe the experience and atmosphere at the outdoor festivals we have here in NZ and it also resonated with our experience night-hiking in the desert.

Early in this section, I had to make sure not to get too wrapped up in the excitement. My body was untrained for this kind of exertion day after day, and I needed to grow into my new lifestyle. I held myself back and listened to what my body was telling me, they say the first part of a thru-hike is all physical. Not only my muscles, but my joints, ligaments, tendons and even my bones were sending me quiet messages, telling me to take it easy while they adapted. A smorgasbord of different kinds of pain kept me in check and helped me avoid injury, despite carrying what some might consider a stupid load.

Muscle strength came first, after just a couple of weeks my legs became noticeably stronger. With this new strength came new risk, I didn’t believe my ligaments and tendons would have grown as fast as my muscles had, so I kept myself in check for a few weeks longer. A couple of months into the trail, I became confident in my body and trusted myself to carry the unusually heavy load (by thru-hiker standards at least). Some had encouraged me to drop weight, but I was living a life of luxury and eating like a king; not only that, but the food I was eating was exactly the kind my body could use to grow. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, uninjured and confident, having tasted altitude on San Jacinto, unbelievable heat near Tehachapi, and pounding through hundreds of miles in the dust. At the end of this section, I knew deep down that I would be seeing the northern terminus some day.

  • Day 1, 23 Apr: Mexican Border

    Today is the day. The whole campsite began to wake up just before 6am. I slept so well last night, very warm and comfortable, my sleeping pad, tent, and sleeping bag were working perfectly. When I opened my door, I saw a thick mist covering the camp. The verandah was lit up, with a fire

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  • Day 2, 24 Apr: To Lake Morena

    Another misty 6am start to the day. Once again I slept very well last night, and waking up was easy. The tent site was full with the sound of people waking up. I watched the mist clear with a coffee in my hands and the sun eventually began to shine. I packed up my gear

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  • Day 3, 25 Apr: To Fred Canyon

    Today was a cruisy day. I woke up around 6:30-7:00 am to make coffee and breakfast. I tried the Quaker Oats apple and cinnamon flavour and really liked them, even when made with only water. I’ll have to get some of them when I can. We packed up site, and unfortunately one person in the

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  • Day 4, 26 Apr: To Mt Laguna

    Today was a cold one. I woke up about 6:30 am and half of camp was making coffee, the other half were packing up already. Everyone wanted to get moving, and cleared out by 7:30 am. We started with a moderate climb from the tentsite up to the junction with the road leading to Cibbets

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  • Day 5, 27 Apr: First 15 Mile Day

    I woke up this morning with ice covering my tent. It had snowed on and off since around midnight, my gear kept me warm though. I had no trouble sleeping in the cold, although the site was on an incline which did interrupt my sleep a little. We packed up our soaking wet tents and

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  • Day 6, 28 Apr: Back Into The Desert

    Waking up this morning, the conditions had changed completely. The wind had died down to a breeze, and the sun was burning through the morning mist. Four of us got on the trail at about 8:30 am. The path was mostly smooth and wide following a level contour, we meandered in and out of the

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  • Day 7, 29 Apr: Julian

    We woke up this morning and it was already getting warm. The sun was bright and we knew we were in for a hot day. We packed up camp and got on the trail by 7:30 am. Today was a town day and everyone was keen to get to the trailhead early. We traveled along

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  • Day 8, 30 Apr: Resupply, Nero, Rattlesnakes!

    This morning I woke around 6:15 am, a little bit earlier than some of the others at the American Legion. I took the time to walk around town before things opened, and to plan how the day might proceed. First stop after packing up at the Legion was Julian Cafe and Bakery. This place has

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  • Day 9, 1 May: Longer Day, Heavier Pack, More Steak

    Today was set to be a proper day, with a heavy pack from resupply and 12 miles to the next water source. I tried once again leaving camp without breakfast, getting on the trail just before 8 am. I could already tell that it was going to be very hot. The trail meandered around the

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  • Day 10, 2 May: 100 Miles

    I just had probably the best night sleep on the trail so far, I slept in a little bit to 6:30 am. A lot of people around camp had already left to beat the heat, but that’s fine, I’ve been enjoying my new morning routine. I packed up camp, fetched a bit more water from

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