As a NOBO hiker, this is where it all began for me. 23rd April marked my start date and I spent 54 days hiking through this section. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South on 15th of June and having made it this far I was swept away by the welcome from the balcony of the Kennedy Meadows General Store.

The desert was full of excitement and nerves, myself and everyone around me were pumped with enthusiasm, ready to tackle the trail. For many on trail, hiking the PCT had been a lifelong dream, for me it was a new discovery, and the collective atmosphere was contagious. Near the start of the trail, everyone I’d met was eager to chat and get to know people around them. I remember my first night on trail, there were almost a dozen hikers spread around the small campsite at around 11 miles, we sat in a group and cooked together, recounting our first day on trail and sharing our plans for the weeks and months ahead.
I started the trail with a group of hikers I’d met on the bus, plus some others I’d met in the first few days. One hiker, MJ from Utah, was thrilled with us down-under folk using the word faff to describe how we mucked around at camp each morning and evening. A pair of Aussies, Lucy and Tiger, proposed we call ourselves the Faffy Family and I suggested a Kiwi touch, how about the Faffy Whanau? The name stuck and we all remained in contact under this name, even after we began to find our own pace and spread out through the trail.
About a month into the desert, a chance encounter with 3 other hikers led to an unexpected grouping, but I didn’t know it until about 2 weeks later. I met Ninja, Fortune Cookie and Star at the windfarm near Cabazon. We shared a campsite one night and regrouped unexpectedly at Wrightwood. We called ourselves the LA Aquadoofers, since we’d made a true party out of crossing the LA Aqueduct at night, Doof is a word I’d been using to describe the experience and atmosphere at the outdoor festivals we have here in NZ and it also resonated with our experience night-hiking in the desert.
Early in this section, I had to make sure not to get too wrapped up in the excitement. My body was untrained for this kind of exertion day after day, and I needed to grow into my new lifestyle. I held myself back and listened to what my body was telling me, they say the first part of a thru-hike is all physical. Not only my muscles, but my joints, ligaments, tendons and even my bones were sending me quiet messages, telling me to take it easy while they adapted. A smorgasbord of different kinds of pain kept me in check and helped me avoid injury, despite carrying what some might consider a stupid load.
Muscle strength came first, after just a couple of weeks my legs became noticeably stronger. With this new strength came new risk, I didn’t believe my ligaments and tendons would have grown as fast as my muscles had, so I kept myself in check for a few weeks longer. A couple of months into the trail, I became confident in my body and trusted myself to carry the unusually heavy load (by thru-hiker standards at least). Some had encouraged me to drop weight, but I was living a life of luxury and eating like a king; not only that, but the food I was eating was exactly the kind my body could use to grow. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, uninjured and confident, having tasted altitude on San Jacinto, unbelievable heat near Tehachapi, and pounding through hundreds of miles in the dust. At the end of this section, I knew deep down that I would be seeing the northern terminus some day.
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Day 21, 13 May: To Mission Creek
Today was fortunately not as hard as the last few days. With 13 miles to the camp before Mission Creek, I decided I could afford to spend a bit of time at camp. The windfarm office was kind enough to allow hikers to use the bathrooms and charge devices, so I packed up and made
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Day 22, 14 May: Mission Creek Mish
Today wasn’t the longest day, with only 9.3 miles or 15 km covered. It was a bit of a slog though, mostly washed out trail and river bashing. Tiresome work. To be honest though, it wasn’t as bad as I’ve heard from rumours, certainly it’s no Hapuku River Valley. The trail started out fairly smoothly.
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Day 23, 15 May: Out of Mission Creek
Today was a great day. Covered 12.8 miles, 20.5 km and climbed 3661 ft, 1116 m. Almost all day, we had clear and well graded trail to follow, and views which just got better and better. Starting out, we climbed quickly from the creek bed. A fairly steep climb, but very rewarding. We could look
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Day 24, 16 May: 10% Day
Another great day today, covered 17.5 miles, 28.1 km, and mostly downhill. The track was very well formed, not too rocky in most places, and level for most of the day. Starting out, just before 8 am, it was a little chilly. The sun rose slowly through the trees, and we were on the west
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Day 25, 17 May: Big Bear Lake
Town day today, and that means a hectic blur of a day. Resupply, laundry, shower, and eating as much town food as physically possible. It’s hard to overstate how chaotic things can get on a town day. There’s many hikers from multiple familiar groups with different plans and nobody knows really where we are. As
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Day 26, 18 May: Big Bear Nero
The plan today was to leave town in the afternoon and hike just a little way from the trailhead to camp. A great plan, because somehow I woke up slightly hungover from last night. The morning was spent hanging out in the kitchen and eating free pancakes, an ITH Hostel breakfast staple. After breakfast, I
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Day 27, 19 May: Little Bear Springs Camp
Today was a fantastic day. I slept so well, and woke up feeling strong from the 2 days rest and all that good town food. We covered 17.2 miles, 27.7 km on mostly flat and well graded trail. We got on trail at 7:30 am, and started with a fairly small climb. Just enough to
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Day 28, 20 May: Deep Creek
We covered 12.6 miles, 20.2 km today. Once again the day was mostly downhill, on nice level trail. We had originally planned to walk 16 miles, but after a couple of really nice breaks on the way, we decided a shorter day finished off with a swim in the creek would be better. The first
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Day 29, 21 May: 300 Miles, Hot Springs
Today we hiked from one swim spot to another, only 9.5 miles, 15.2 km. It was too good to pass up an opportunity to swim at camp for a second night running. We also passed the 300 mile marker this morning. We got on trail around 8:30 am, and as soon as we climbed out
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Day 30, 22 May: Crossing The Dam
Today we covered 17.1 miles, 27.5 km. We climbed out from the hot pools and finished our hike through Deep Creek. After exiting the valley, we continued toward Silverwood Lake around hot and exposed hillsides. The climb out of Deep Creek was fairly gradual, but still gained us some height quite quickly. We had good

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