As a NOBO hiker, this is where it all began for me. 23rd April marked my start date and I spent 54 days hiking through this section. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South on 15th of June and having made it this far I was swept away by the welcome from the balcony of the Kennedy Meadows General Store.

The desert was full of excitement and nerves, myself and everyone around me were pumped with enthusiasm, ready to tackle the trail. For many on trail, hiking the PCT had been a lifelong dream, for me it was a new discovery, and the collective atmosphere was contagious. Near the start of the trail, everyone I’d met was eager to chat and get to know people around them. I remember my first night on trail, there were almost a dozen hikers spread around the small campsite at around 11 miles, we sat in a group and cooked together, recounting our first day on trail and sharing our plans for the weeks and months ahead.
I started the trail with a group of hikers I’d met on the bus, plus some others I’d met in the first few days. One hiker, MJ from Utah, was thrilled with us down-under folk using the word faff to describe how we mucked around at camp each morning and evening. A pair of Aussies, Lucy and Tiger, proposed we call ourselves the Faffy Family and I suggested a Kiwi touch, how about the Faffy Whanau? The name stuck and we all remained in contact under this name, even after we began to find our own pace and spread out through the trail.
About a month into the desert, a chance encounter with 3 other hikers led to an unexpected grouping, but I didn’t know it until about 2 weeks later. I met Ninja, Fortune Cookie and Star at the windfarm near Cabazon. We shared a campsite one night and regrouped unexpectedly at Wrightwood. We called ourselves the LA Aquadoofers, since we’d made a true party out of crossing the LA Aqueduct at night, Doof is a word I’d been using to describe the experience and atmosphere at the outdoor festivals we have here in NZ and it also resonated with our experience night-hiking in the desert.
Early in this section, I had to make sure not to get too wrapped up in the excitement. My body was untrained for this kind of exertion day after day, and I needed to grow into my new lifestyle. I held myself back and listened to what my body was telling me, they say the first part of a thru-hike is all physical. Not only my muscles, but my joints, ligaments, tendons and even my bones were sending me quiet messages, telling me to take it easy while they adapted. A smorgasbord of different kinds of pain kept me in check and helped me avoid injury, despite carrying what some might consider a stupid load.
Muscle strength came first, after just a couple of weeks my legs became noticeably stronger. With this new strength came new risk, I didn’t believe my ligaments and tendons would have grown as fast as my muscles had, so I kept myself in check for a few weeks longer. A couple of months into the trail, I became confident in my body and trusted myself to carry the unusually heavy load (by thru-hiker standards at least). Some had encouraged me to drop weight, but I was living a life of luxury and eating like a king; not only that, but the food I was eating was exactly the kind my body could use to grow. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, uninjured and confident, having tasted altitude on San Jacinto, unbelievable heat near Tehachapi, and pounding through hundreds of miles in the dust. At the end of this section, I knew deep down that I would be seeing the northern terminus some day.
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Day 31, 23 May: Cajon Junction
A long day of pretty cruisy hiking today. Got on trail around 7:30 am and hiked 16.3 miles, 26.2 km, with only a few hundred meters elevation. We spent about 12 hours on the trail, with long breaks for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Today was my first time arriving at camp after dark. The trail
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Day 32, 24 May: McDonald’s On The Trail
Today was a nero day. After another 5 days on trail, we woke up just mile from the only McDonald’s on trail. Yes there’s a McDonald’s on the PCT. We woke up and the weather was slightly cold, a bit overcast too. Packing up camp was a breeze, as it always is on town day.
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Day 33, 25 May: Bonus Zero Day
Today ended up becoming a bonus zero day. One thing that has definitely come to light on this trail is that things work out best when you’re not beholden to specific plans. We all packed up this morning and organized a lift to the supermarket in Phelan, a small town outside Wrightwood with much cheaper
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Day 34, 26 May: Mt Baden Powell
Today we left Wrightwood just before lunchtime, and covered approximately 10 miles, 16 km. Of that, about 5 miles was on a road closed to vehicles due to a fire in the past. We climbed Mt Baden Powell, had dinner at the summit and continued until dark to set up camp at 8855 ft, 2700
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Day 35, 27 May: Saving The Frogs
We came down from Mt Baden Powell today, bagging a couple of off trail peaks along the way. Today’s hike was 14.5 miles, 23.3 km. A lot of that mileage was on the road due to a section of trail closed to allow an endangered species of frog to recover. We started on trail at
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Day 36, 28 May: 400 Miles
Today we covered 16.6 miles, 26.7 km from Cooper Canyon trail camp to a spot on the north east spur of Mt Pacifico. The day began with a long climb out of Cooper Canyon. The trail looped around a huge bowl, and I could look across and see the trail half an hour behind me.
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Day 37, 29 May: Crossing Pacifico
Today I hiked 15.2 miles, 24.5 km. I got on the trail around 8 am, and hiked until 6 pm. My legs have now become capable of hiking 10 hours per day and around 15-17 miles consistently. The tent site last night was perfectly placed to get the sunrise through my door. As soon as
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Day 38, 30 May: Heatwave
Today was seriously hot, I don’t have a good way of knowing but it could easily have been high 30s or 40 °C. I went through about 8 L of water, hiking 13.2 miles or 21 km. At the end of the day I ended up about 2 hours from the Acton LA RV Resort.
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Day 39, 31 May, Nero Into Acton RV Resort
I camped just 4 miles from the Acton RV Resort last night, so thankfully I didn’t have far to walk in the heat before getting there. I left camp at 7 am, got to the campground around 9:30, and spent the the day resting, resupplying and catching up with other hikers. Leaving camp, it was
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Day 40, 1 June: Vasquez Rocks & Agua Dulce
Today was a bit like a bonus town day, but we still covered 14.3 miles, 22.9 km. We walked past the famous Vasquez Rocks, which have historically been used to shoot dozens of films and TV series. We also had lunch in an awesome Mexican bar and camped just on the other side of town.

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