Trekkin Weka

The blog of a Kiwi on the Pacific Crest Trail 2025

The Desert

As a NOBO hiker, this is where it all began for me. 23rd April marked my start date and I spent 54 days hiking through this section. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South on 15th of June and having made it this far I was swept away by the welcome from the balcony of the Kennedy Meadows General Store.

The unforgettable wildlife and landscape of the desert will be with me forever

The desert was full of excitement and nerves, myself and everyone around me were pumped with enthusiasm, ready to tackle the trail. For many on trail, hiking the PCT had been a lifelong dream, for me it was a new discovery, and the collective atmosphere was contagious. Near the start of the trail, everyone I’d met was eager to chat and get to know people around them. I remember my first night on trail, there were almost a dozen hikers spread around the small campsite at around 11 miles, we sat in a group and cooked together, recounting our first day on trail and sharing our plans for the weeks and months ahead.

I started the trail with a group of hikers I’d met on the bus, plus some others I’d met in the first few days. One hiker, MJ from Utah, was thrilled with us down-under folk using the word faff to describe how we mucked around at camp each morning and evening. A pair of Aussies, Lucy and Tiger, proposed we call ourselves the Faffy Family and I suggested a Kiwi touch, how about the Faffy Whanau? The name stuck and we all remained in contact under this name, even after we began to find our own pace and spread out through the trail.

About a month into the desert, a chance encounter with 3 other hikers led to an unexpected grouping, but I didn’t know it until about 2 weeks later. I met Ninja, Fortune Cookie and Star at the windfarm near Cabazon. We shared a campsite one night and regrouped unexpectedly at Wrightwood. We called ourselves the LA Aquadoofers, since we’d made a true party out of crossing the LA Aqueduct at night, Doof is a word I’d been using to describe the experience and atmosphere at the outdoor festivals we have here in NZ and it also resonated with our experience night-hiking in the desert.

Early in this section, I had to make sure not to get too wrapped up in the excitement. My body was untrained for this kind of exertion day after day, and I needed to grow into my new lifestyle. I held myself back and listened to what my body was telling me, they say the first part of a thru-hike is all physical. Not only my muscles, but my joints, ligaments, tendons and even my bones were sending me quiet messages, telling me to take it easy while they adapted. A smorgasbord of different kinds of pain kept me in check and helped me avoid injury, despite carrying what some might consider a stupid load.

Muscle strength came first, after just a couple of weeks my legs became noticeably stronger. With this new strength came new risk, I didn’t believe my ligaments and tendons would have grown as fast as my muscles had, so I kept myself in check for a few weeks longer. A couple of months into the trail, I became confident in my body and trusted myself to carry the unusually heavy load (by thru-hiker standards at least). Some had encouraged me to drop weight, but I was living a life of luxury and eating like a king; not only that, but the food I was eating was exactly the kind my body could use to grow. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, uninjured and confident, having tasted altitude on San Jacinto, unbelievable heat near Tehachapi, and pounding through hundreds of miles in the dust. At the end of this section, I knew deep down that I would be seeing the northern terminus some day.

  • Day 52, 13 June: Chimney Creek Campground

    Today I covered 12.4 miles, 20 km. The day started with a hard climb, followed by a very long and gradual descent into Chimney Creek. When we got there, we meet Jim, a trail angel who has been giving trail magic and cooking meals for hikers for 10 years. The day starts with a big

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  • Day 53, 14 June: Last Night In The Desert

    Today I covered 12.7 miles, 20.4 km from the Chimney Creek campground to Manter Creek. I’m taking it super easy into Kennedy Meadows because I know this is the end of a major section of the PCT. The trail today was more gradual than yesterday, climbing steadily up a ridge and then descending down the

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  • Day 54, 15 June: Kennedy Meadows South

    Arriving in Kennedy Meadows South marks the end of the desert section. It’s a huge milestone on the PCT, at 700 miles or 1160 km, everyone is ready to leave the desert behind and enter the High Sierra. I camped 8.7 miles, 14 km from the road junction and arrived in town about 1 pm.

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  • Days 55-57, 16-18 June: Triple Zero Kennedy Meadows

    Kennedy Meadows is a great place to spend some time after the desert. There are two main spots here, each with free camping and other amenities, although with the number of hikers things can get overloaded. The general store is the first business most people see. They have good burgers and other fried food, so

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  • Day 58, 19 June: Escaping The Vortex

    At last I’m getting out of Kennedy Meadows. My energy has returned and I’m able to organize my pack, including mailing some excess to Mammoth Lakes. After I’ve packed my bear can full of food, I realize it fits nicely inside my pack. I’m so glad not to be tying it to the top of

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