As a NOBO hiker, this is where it all began for me. 23rd April marked my start date and I spent 54 days hiking through this section. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South on 15th of June and having made it this far I was swept away by the welcome from the balcony of the Kennedy Meadows General Store.

The desert was full of excitement and nerves, myself and everyone around me were pumped with enthusiasm, ready to tackle the trail. For many on trail, hiking the PCT had been a lifelong dream, for me it was a new discovery, and the collective atmosphere was contagious. Near the start of the trail, everyone I’d met was eager to chat and get to know people around them. I remember my first night on trail, there were almost a dozen hikers spread around the small campsite at around 11 miles, we sat in a group and cooked together, recounting our first day on trail and sharing our plans for the weeks and months ahead.
I started the trail with a group of hikers I’d met on the bus, plus some others I’d met in the first few days. One hiker, MJ from Utah, was thrilled with us down-under folk using the word faff to describe how we mucked around at camp each morning and evening. A pair of Aussies, Lucy and Tiger, proposed we call ourselves the Faffy Family and I suggested a Kiwi touch, how about the Faffy Whanau? The name stuck and we all remained in contact under this name, even after we began to find our own pace and spread out through the trail.
About a month into the desert, a chance encounter with 3 other hikers led to an unexpected grouping, but I didn’t know it until about 2 weeks later. I met Ninja, Fortune Cookie and Star at the windfarm near Cabazon. We shared a campsite one night and regrouped unexpectedly at Wrightwood. We called ourselves the LA Aquadoofers, since we’d made a true party out of crossing the LA Aqueduct at night, Doof is a word I’d been using to describe the experience and atmosphere at the outdoor festivals we have here in NZ and it also resonated with our experience night-hiking in the desert.
Early in this section, I had to make sure not to get too wrapped up in the excitement. My body was untrained for this kind of exertion day after day, and I needed to grow into my new lifestyle. I held myself back and listened to what my body was telling me, they say the first part of a thru-hike is all physical. Not only my muscles, but my joints, ligaments, tendons and even my bones were sending me quiet messages, telling me to take it easy while they adapted. A smorgasbord of different kinds of pain kept me in check and helped me avoid injury, despite carrying what some might consider a stupid load.
Muscle strength came first, after just a couple of weeks my legs became noticeably stronger. With this new strength came new risk, I didn’t believe my ligaments and tendons would have grown as fast as my muscles had, so I kept myself in check for a few weeks longer. A couple of months into the trail, I became confident in my body and trusted myself to carry the unusually heavy load (by thru-hiker standards at least). Some had encouraged me to drop weight, but I was living a life of luxury and eating like a king; not only that, but the food I was eating was exactly the kind my body could use to grow. I arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, uninjured and confident, having tasted altitude on San Jacinto, unbelievable heat near Tehachapi, and pounding through hundreds of miles in the dust. At the end of this section, I knew deep down that I would be seeing the northern terminus some day.
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Day 41, 2 June: Trail Magic Vortex
Today I covered 12.9 miles, 20.7 km. I fell short of the planned 15.7 miles, but I hit the jackpot and found back to back trail magic on both sides of the same road. Tomorrow, I’m going to need to leave early if I want to catch the people I’ve been hiking with for the
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Day 42, 3 June: Spelunking
Today I covered 18.5 miles, 29.8 km. I also managed to catch the people who I’d been with. On my way up to camp I also explored a couple of small caves on the side of the trail. Arrival at camp was a little late, which didn’t leave me much time to set up, make
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Day 43, 4 June: 500 Miles
Today I covered 14.3 miles, 22.9 km. I slept just 6 hours last night, and fought with a mouse, so I was still feeling some fatigue from yesterday. By the end of the day I was relieved to see camp at around 5:30 pm. Earlier in the day, I crossed the 500 mile marker, a
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Day 44, 5 June: LA Aqueduct
This is a notorious section of the PCT, we covered some big miles over the day and through the night. Today’s mileage comes in at 30.4 miles, 49 km. The day was split into two, with a rest in the middle. The aqueduct section itself is practically always hiked through the night because it’s so
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Day 45, 6 June: The Midnight Desert Sun
We spent all day hiding from the sun. Moving every couple of hours to stay in the shade, and sleeping whenever possible on the hot sand. I was totally exhausted from yesterday, and I badly needed rest as my feet were deeply bruised, it felt like walking on bags of rocks. My first nap, as
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Day 46, 7 June: Tehachapi Oasis
Today I was still exhausted from the efforts to cross the aquaduct. I covered just 8.2 miles, 13.2 km. I hiked through the heat of the day, with 2251 ft, 686 m of ascent. Luckily for me, at the end of the day I stumbled upon an oasis with fresh spring water, snacks, umbrellas and
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Day 47, 8 June: Arrival in Tehachapi
Today I took a short day into Tehachapi. My pack was super light, almost empty and my legs were feeling so fresh. I only had 8.8 miles,14.2 km to get to the road and hitch into town. Once in town I had all afternoon to relax before checking in to a hotel for a couple
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Day 48 & 49, 9-10 June: Double Zero In Tehachapi
These days were spent in Tehachapi, resting, recovering, and resupplying. We visited Walmart, spent an awful lot on food, and tried to get everything done in a day. We start at Walmart, it’s the first time I’ve been here so I don’t exactly know what to expect. Inside, it’s like The Warehouse and Pak N
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Day 50, 11 June: Walker Pass
We’d heard a lot of news about the section from Tehachapi to Walker Pass. Rumors of extreme heat, very long water carries, and having to rely on water cached by trail angels along the way. We’d also heard that 10 hikers had been rescued from that section in the last week. In light of these
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Day 51, 12 June: Nearing The Desert’s End
Today I covered 11.8 miles, 19.1 km. The mountains are definitely becoming more pronounced, and it’s starting to feel as though we’re getting towards the end of the desert. It’s still quite hot and exposed, and I’m carrying a lot of water from each source, but that will change soon. A fun side effect of

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